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Into the Wind

 

Stuff Contents:

PVC Quad Handles
Quad Magic Sticks
Shaky Kite
Hoop Winder
Kite Lines and Wind
Fading
Swivels
Larkshead Knot
Competition
Badboy Tail
Setup Basics
Flexi Solo Launch

PVC Quad Handles
Top

Check out my site regarding " makeing your own Quad handles" you might find it helpful & informative. Happy flying, Steve L. http://spiritsinthesky.com/do_it_yourself.htm

Saw a very nice rec.kites post that reminded me of this idea, from a few years back:

http://puppetkite.tripod.com/morehandle.jpg

...concerning homemade PVC handle shapes and winding of lines around the handles.

Unable to send an email attachment to cyberkites@eGroups this morning, so thought I'd better do it this way, before I forget :)

Thanks, rrrr

Hi again,

Why not try:- http://members.tripod.com/~KeenOnKites/ep_hand.htm Otherwise buy rev handles or, if they are for a nasa wing ( as your last posting suggests ), get some c-quad handles. I bought mine for £12.95 so they are not too dear.

Hope this helps,
Ste.......... ~80)

They look good - much like the 30UKP rev handles. One Q: What is PVC schedule 40 conduit and where would I get it? A plumber?

Cheers,
Andy

PVC conduit is available at any electrical supply or home center like Home Depot or many hardware stores. It is gray colored.

Art
Gotta fly!

It's thick PVC tubing. In the UK, you could try Do It All, that sort of place -- but you might have difficulty finding something thick enough; schedule 40 = walls ~2-3mm thick or so, I think. (but it should be pretty clear by looking at a given bit of pipe if it's thick enough..)

Plumber's merchants should sell them; or the bigger more industrial-type DIY stores; Wickes, I seem to recall, gave the impression of being more oriented towards big stuff, though that may just have been the local one.

-- dan

Replacement 10 speed bike handles, the foam types, make great pads for quad handles from schedule 40 or 80 PVC (sold as 1/2" I.D. but abt. 3/4" O.D.) electrical conduit. The gray stuff is actually electrical conduit PVC and not a plumbing product. And a package of handlebar pads from a bike shop or mass retailer like Fred Meyer or Home Base or........ gives you at least four pads, usually two longer and two shorter (they cut them up and beval the ends to leave room for the brake actuators).

I have some home-made handles that still in use after 7 or 8 years!

I found plans for quad handles on the net, but I lost the URL and I can't find it anymore. I will try to explain how I made them.

My handles are in alu tube. You can buy that in every hardware store (in Dutch: ijzerwinkel). I cut two pieces of around 30 cm. Make sure you remove all sharp edges. To bend the tube, heat it. You can fill the tube with sand to make sure it heats evenly. Bend it 10 or 15 degrees, as you like it. Watch out with the sand. It remains hot for a long time (I melted the plastic bag that contained the sand :-) Then drill the holes. Drill two holes for the main and brake lines, and one hole on the other side for attitching a harness. Drill the harness hole a little bit lower than the main line, if you make handles for a nasawing or C-quad. Then go to the bicycle store to buy some foam (like the foam on a bike's handlebar). Maybe it would be wise to go to that store first and then buy some tube that fits in.

If you understand this, you're very intelligent. The building is much easier than understanding my explanation :-)

Groetjes

Quad Magic Sticks
Top

I've just built myself a Rev-look-e-like-e...what are quad sticks (someone must know.!!!) The only thing I could think of...with my VERY limited experience..were a couple of spars about halfway down the vertical spars, sticking out the back, to "aid" launch and landing..(see awful piccy)

                                   /
                                  /
                                 /\
         WIND-->                /  \
                               /    \
                              /      \
---------------------------------------------------

only in real life they would be perpendicular to the vert spars (sticking staight out)

-- cheers
Tim

Yup,

You've got it just about right. The fun part is the bridling. You want things taut but not too tight. Dimensions of the spar and its position are very important in the proper function of the 'sticks'. ( memory tells me about 3/4 the dimension of the vertical spar)

I can't help with exact dimensions, though, I don't use them on my 1.5's. I tried them on a friends 1.5 and didn't really like them. Made it feel "clunky" and "heavy". I am considering making a set for my Rev II, though. I have friends who have them on theirs and the really like them. They allow more radical maneuvers without flipping a wing. Also prevent walking because you can't lay the kite on it's back in an unrecoverable position. Keep in mind that they do add weight which affects response. The wife & I still jokingly call them training wheels but they still look like fun.

See you in the sky,
Dan

hi

your drawing is generally correct, but should be at a 90 ° out the back and I was thinking about half as long as the vertical sticks BUT it been a while since I seen one.

                |
                |
                |______
                |       
                |
                |

that way if it was up side down or right side up, it would be easy to launch....plus it does not need to staked when not flying :-)

tom A.

Shaky Kite
Top

Hi,

I recently acquired a 2-string 6-partitioned matress kite. Got it airborne on the beach and discovered that it shakes and stutters... rather like an engine about to stall. The strings all seem OK and untangled. Looking up at the kite the centre looks slightly 'dented' and the left and right ends 'stutter' the most. There are no hard parts in the kites.

Any advice? If so, please mail me too if you can as I get little chance to check the newsgroups.

thanks, Suzanna

From your description it sounds like you are flying the kite in winds too strong for the design. Look for this information in the kite package information if you have it. If you dont, then try it in lighter winds. Most 2 line kites are not built for winds much higher than 15-18 mph, with the majority below 15mph.

Allen

Suz,

Make sure the bridle lines (STRINGS!) do not look as though they have been modified i.e. Do all the securing knots look the same? Sounds like either too much wind or an "adjusted" bridle. Got any makers name on it anywhere?

Regards
Phil H.

Hoop Winder
Top

I keep reading that line should be fed out off one side of the hoop winder and that rewinding should be done on the other side -- after the kite is brought down.

How do you bring down a single line parafoil when the wind is over, say, 20 mph? Even assuming you have the room, you can't run fast enough to bring it down. Do you just let it unwind with no resistance until it drops? If so, how do you keep the kite from taking off again after it lands?

Ken Cooperstein

Generally with larger parafoils and other single line kites I "walk" the kite down. Starting at the anchor point either walk the line down hand over hand or place a small pulley over the line and walk toward the kite. When you get to the bridle point, land the kite, disconnect the line and wind it up. I've also used a carabiner and a strap in a pinch. hope that helps.

Rod

What can you do if you are flying over water or a cliff? Does anyone make a rewinder that can rewind under 30 lbs of tension?

The walkdown method is still the same. Just simply follow the shoreline, cliffline, or whatever borders the water you are flying over. The kite will fly right down to your hands, and the line will be on the ground behind you.

I don't know, but unless you are in a boat, the walkdown is easier. If you have to reel it in, then I would look for a winder with a solid core reel, so that it won't crush under the pressure.

Hope this helps,
David

Hi folks.

Who said that you have to walk the kite down but also downwind. If your anchor allows it, nothing precludes you from walking upwind. A pulley may help if the kite is pulling hard.

I used that trick to get a kite down in a small park (about 200 feet of space) after having given the kite 500 feet (150 meters) of line. I walked the kite line downwind until I reached the downwind limit. I then clipped a carabiner to a loop of cord attached to a tree, I passed the line through the carabiner then walked backward (upwind) until I was back at the anchor point. I then passed the kite line through my other carabiner that was used at the anchor point and walked downwind again. After the kite was down I just detached it , folded it. Then the line winding was done in a few minutes.

Wind or no wind, fly for fun :)

Jean (Johnny) Lemire

Something you said here bothered me a bit. I have always heard that you wind and unwind from the SAME side to prevent twisting of the line. I know from experience that this is true for card winders. It makes sense to me that it's also true for hoop winders. Can anyone comment?

PCH

The line should be let out on the same side it is wound in on.

Jug

Kite Lines and Wind
Top

Rookie here wondering how big of a difference some good line makes to kite performance.

Own a Prism Fanatic, and was finding it real hard with the supplied line to get a good stall and virtually impossible to get an axel in.

I just ordered some 80lbsx50' and 80lbsx80' spectra line and was wondering from experience, if people noticed a difference. Haven't had a chance to go and fly yet to see if I notice a difference.

Any insight would be great.
Thanks in advance

It will make a big difference, once you have the experience to notice it. At first it may seem to make the kite react to quickly, especially something like the Fanatic. Once you learn how to fly with spectra, and go back to the original lines you'll notice the rubberband effect non-spectra line causes. This makes consistency impossible which will cause tricks to be unpredicatable. If the wind picks up, the original lines will stretch more, if you pop the line quicker, or harder, the lines stretch more. I tried someone's new Alpha + this weekend, and liked the kite, but hated the lines. My first pancake to fade turned into a yoyo by time the line added it's snapback into my tug for the fade.

WT

Fading
Top

Anyone know of a good way to protect rip-stop from fading in in the sun? Has anyone tried a UV protecting spray?

The bad news is- you can't. But there are some things you can do to protect your investment and lengthen the life of your kites.

Generally, there are a few things that contribute to the sun's ultra-violet rays attacking fabric (or skin for that matter)

Number one is exposure time. Don't leave your kites set in the sun when you are not flying. The second factor is fabric choice. Generally, nylon is more susceptible to UV damage than polyester fabrics. Some nylons will have different coatings or weaves to help protect them.

Fading is the first and most visible sign of UV damage. The same rays that cause fading are also attacking the fibers themselves, not just the dyes.

Buy yourself a sacrificial cabana, or park your kites under a tree if you must have them set up. And buy a hat and a pair of good, UV resistant sunglasses while you're at it! :)

Ken McNeill

Swivels
Top

Does anyone know of anywhere i can get a bearing swivel that can hold around 400-500lb. Its for a large spinning bol and the best i've found so far is 300lb. UK only please.

- Dave

if you live near the sea you can get them from a fishing bait shop, you may get them inland but Im not shure, they are also very cheep compared to kite shops about 30p each

Hi Dave,

Why not making one yourself.

Take the hub of a small bycycle wheel without the spokes,

Bold a ring shaped nut (like a wing nut but now with a ring instead of wings) to one side of the axle and a normal nut to the other side. Or replace the axle with a large bolt of the same size.

Drill holes for the lines on the places the spokes used to be etc...

The big advantage is that a bycycle hub has 2 bearings which are enclosed, so no problems with sand etc.

Greetings and happy flying, Victor Rutten

We're not in the UK but we do have 250, 500, & 1200 pound test swivels. These finely crafted swivels are made specifically for kite fliers. They utilize sealed bearings in a machined aluminum case. These are the finest swivels for kite flying on the planet! The perfect gift for the kite flier who has everything.

Look for then under Single-line Accessories our just use our search feature at:

www.HighlineKites.com

Happy Flying,
Tom

We're not in the UK, but we do have SAMPO ball bearing swivels in the "hardware" section of our site. <www.gombergKites.com/line.html> We sell three 500 pound swivels for $10. They aren't the really cool (and expensive) aluminum ones, but we still use them on bols up to 10 feet.

Because these are small and light, shipping to the UL would be minimal.

Hope thqat helps.
dg

Ok you seem a bit sarcastic and disbelieving ,how big do you want, the ones I can get go from 300 KGs to 3500 KGs some are racer ball baring some are not the one I would use if money were no object would hold a loading of 900 KGs is light weight, constructed of stainless and plastic,and has a proper baring in it (not one of those cheep things from the kite shop) these are expensive at about £16 but you wont need to buy another ever. if that's to expensive they do swivels without bearings for £4 which is what I use. there more than is needed for the job and spin with ease Ive used the one Ive got for about three years with a dan lee delter and a couple of big foils. just becouse you havent found them dosen't meen they dont exist. If you like I can send you there list.

Larkshead Knot
Top

Here are several step by step photos - http://www.prismkites.com/new-site/first-flight2.htm

Competition
Top

I have my first competition in a bit over a week from now. I will be flying novice class precision.

The event organizer says, "Novice individual precision is made up of 3 maneuvers and a free-style flight" -- since I have never even seen a comp., what is the free-style flight??

Ed

Hi Ed-

Check out the AKA website, go to the "publications" page, and absorb the rulebook. The more you learn from it, the better time you are likely to have at the event, as there will be further surprises!

http://www.aka.kite.org

When you get to the event, let the chief judge and/or event coordinator know that this is your first comp, they should welcome you with open arms and assist you in finding someone to mentor you through your first event.

If they don't, tell them you will tell me. ;-)))))

Best of luck, let us know how it goes for you!

Mike Gillard Chairman AKA Festivals and Competitions Committee

Hi Ed,

Good on you- for getting inspired to compete even though you haven't seen a comp yet! The freestyle portion of a precision event is used to demonstrate your ability to "precisely" control your kite. You've already flown your compulsories, so, now it's time to show your control in a Freestyle environment. If you can do anything really well, do it twice in your freestyle portion. For novice class, as a judge, I would be looking for any move that shows your control of the kite. If you can do a side slide, great! If you manage a clean simple stall, that'll get points. How about a simple landing on both sides of the window, or a tip stand, these things show control. Your freestyle portion can run up to 3 minutes. If you don't have a bagful of tricks, that's ok too. Just fly some recognizable figures to demonstrate your control. As you progress, you'll soon have your own idea of what "Freestyle" should be. Experience on the comp field will give you a picture worth a thousand words.

Good luck, practice your compulsories, and Blue Skies,
Mike Delfar

Congratulations on getting into competition. I flew my first comp. last Fall, and it has added a whole new dimension to my flying.

I would just add that you should absorb everything Mike Delfar said in his response, but focus on one part in particular - *practice your compulsories*. Doing those 3 figures well will do more for your score than your freestyle. Have someone stand behind you and judge your figures for you when you practice. Encourage them to be critical and nitpicky - it will help you alot. The judges' perspective is different from the flyer's, you will often think that you've done a figure well, but the judge will see it differently. Take advantage of the fact that in novice class you get to setup for each figure and "rest" between the figures. When you move to intermediate and beyond, you'll have to incorporate 4 compulsories into a choreographed freestyle routine, which is more difficult.

Regarding the freestyle, even if you don't concentrate on it too much in practice, it is a good idea to have at least a plan on what you want to do. The less you look like you're just aimlessly wandering around during the freestyle, the better. Shorter and choreographed-looking is better than long and unplanned-looking.

And remember to have fun. Competing is a real adrenaline rush - enjoy it.

Good luck.
- Ron G.

Actually, standard style, Individual precision freestyle has a time limit of 30 seconds minimum and 2 minutes maximum.

Everything else Mike said, I agree with.

If you are a new competitor, it would be in your best interest if you call AKA executive director "Mel Hickman", and ask for a copy of the rulebook. The rulebook will tell you everything you need to know. Or you can go to the AKA website and veiw the rules.

Mel Hickman can be reached at xd@aka.kite.org or (800)252-2550

Good luck with your competition!

Troy Gunn

Sorry Troy, Mike was right. As of September 1998 and the AKA'S adoption of the International Sport Kite Handbook the time limits are between one and three minutes.

The rule book is currently out of stock. It is available in pdf format on at http://www.aka.kite.org under "Publications" select "Rule Books".

Chuck Sigal

Badboy Tail
Top

Hi All

I have just returned from one of the most enjoyable kite flying sessions I've had this year :-) Since I got my PBSK kites a week or some ago I haven't had much time to really give them a work out. It all started earlier in the day when I went out to fly in a beautiful 7-8 knot seabreaze and after playing around with a Gemini for a while I thought it would be nice to fly a tail around for a while to entertain all the Sunday strollers and kids that were taking advantage of the nice day, when I was called back to the shop to fix a kite. Well I didn't get a chance to get back out so after we shut the shop most of the crowd had left the beach but here were still plenty of folks around so of I went with a 35M plastic tube tail, 130' x 80lb lines my sunnys and the Bad Boy. When I first launched the kite didn't have enough grunt to pull the tail around, the wind had dropped to approx 3 4 knots, so I made a quick adjustment to the bridle, no problem. I moved down the beach in front of a section of the promenade that juts out onto the sand and started just doing corkscrews and lots of loops etc. Soon there were small faces and mums and dads lined up along the seawall and I just started stalling the kite above their heads and letting the tail fall on them, so many squeals and smiles all round, me included. Hundreds of people stopped and looked in awe at this stunning kite and it's amazing gyrating tail, dozens came up to me to comment on the kite and my skills at doing loops and stalls !!!? :-) Kids were clamouring over each other to grab the tail and stop the kite but they all let it go fairly quickly as there was always a chorus of young voices saying let it go let it go - they all wanted to see it corkscrew again ! Eventually some bigger boys tried to haul the kite down out of the sky, ignoring all the protesting, so I just avoided letting the tail near them again, but then they all moved down onto the sand directly in front of me of course!! Then a collie dog appeared and started to stalk and round up the flying black and white sheep with the long purple tail, it never barked once, and would drop on it's haunches whenever I stalled or landed the kite, then would scream off after the kite when I took off again because the enemy kids were closing in. The crowd loved it!! I was answering some questions about the lovely painting on the kite, explaining as I flew that it was all appliqué, when a young girl came and excused herself for interrupting, telling me she was concerned that she might get a fine because it was her dog and they are banned on the beach, but it had taken off from her from the other end of the beach when it saw the kite and it is uncontrollable once it sees a flying sheep, I said I would just keep it still above my head and they could then catch rover - not. So I said I would land the kite at the edge on my right side and it would drop as it had been doing for about 20 mins, so I did and the enemy kids saw this as a perfect opportunity to capture the kite, I freaked as approx 30 kids surrounded the kite all trying to get hold of their bit of the tail and the bigger boys decided to toss the kite around, well I've never heard/seen a crowd of onlookers all yell and gesture to the boys to leave the kite alone, I didn't say anything, it was as if they all felt the threat of damage, amazing. The owners got the dog and I decided to pack up and go home for dinner much to everyone's disappointment and when I was asked why I was leaving, it was starting to get dark and I was getting quite hungry anyway I said I had to go as I had told my wife I would only be 1/2 an hour, I asked some one the time and discovered I had been there for 2 and a half hours, it was 8.30!!! The dog owners tried to move the dog but it just growled, so they asked me which way I was going, luckily for them and rover in the same direction as their car, so I was escorted under the watchful eye of rover all the way to my car where I hid the black sheep, so they could take rover home, what a funny dog and the most unusual ending to a fantastic flying session. The Bad Boy was most impressive to me not only because of the reaction from the people, but because I had tuned it so far forward to give it sufficient drive to pull the long tail but because of the way in still turned on a dime and was so easy and rock steady in a stall. I was going to comment on the Warrior and the Vanishing point too ( they are both awesome flyers and stunningly beautiful too) but this is getting a little long and I'm going to get some sleep, cya and Goodwinds

Steve McCormack

Setup Basics
Top

Hi

Depending what sort of handles you have will decide the best way to park the kite. If you have Flexifoil handles which come with loops at the bottom of the handles, you can just stake them down to the ground. Because the bottom lines are shorter (due to the slant of the handles while they are staked) the kite will not take off as the pressure is being kept on the bottom (brake) lines.

I believe that the handles that come with the Sky Tigers in the US have the loops at the top of the handles, if this is the case, then you will want to park the kite upside down, as staking them down with the pressure on the top lines would want to make the kite take off. Turning the kite upside down will stop it launching. Whether you stake them down from the top or bottom of the handles, either way, the kite will remain on the ground, ready for relaunching, and you will be free to mill around, run off to the shop for a drinkie, (or nearest loo) without fear of losing your kite or buggy. :o)

If your handles have no extra loops on them, you may want to drill a hole through the bottom of them and attach a length of sleeving as a loop, to hook them onto the stake.

Hope this makes some sense

Cheers Jo

Flexi Solo Launch
Top

Has anyone had any success at this? Is it something only possible on the beach? Tips? I've read the instruction manual but still dependent on the better half (who dosn't have the same enthusiasm for kites as I have).

Also . how difficult / easy is it to break a spar? and is replacement expensive (just anticipating what will happen next).

there are several ways.

i've usually managed it on grass just by putting the kite the right way up and walking back real slow. dont try to yank it it just deflates. go real slow with your hands low down to the floor. when it inflates and pops up a foot or so you can apply a steady harder pull to get it rising properly.

i have had some success in the past launching on 2 stakes - use the doggy corkscrew jobbies, screw them in about 8" apart, then set up the kite and launch it yourself. it can be stable in flight but it pays to get back to the lines quite hastily.

if all else fails i've found that my 10ft bright yellow flexi attracts enough interested bystanders who can be enlisted (nake sure they know not to throw it up)

the real solution is to find someone to fly with. where abouts are you in UK?? ideally you want to find someone who flies deltas, cos they can manage to launch themselves. also after the huge arm movements of your flexi, if they let you have a go with their hyper sensitive delta you will have an amusing time.

as regards breaking spars, i've only had mine a few months, but i've crashed it hard a few times with no damage.

have fun
Dave

Try two stakes in the ground about 3 inches in from the tether points. about 2' 6'' long, at an angle of 45 deg towards the flier.

Gently tug the kite up the incline so that it can inflate, it usually takes off itself without you having to drag it over the end of the stakes.

Flexifoil used to recommend this in the instructions but have now stopped, I guess the end of the stakes caused some damage at some time, I have protected mine with lots of PVC tape to avoid this.

The other option is to render the better half unconscious with copious amounts of strong liquor and use the reclining body as the ramp.

Attach a sort of little flag in a bright color at the end of the stick... no ribbin cause that can catch your line.

On the beach in high winds do the opposite: as before 2 stakes 45 degrees towards you, but now you lay the kite in front of the stakes to keep it down until you want it to fly.

Regards, Peter

You need a smooth surface to self launch the flexi and some good winds is a tremendous help. Not marginal winds mind you. I have launched on concrete when the grass nearby was to tall. Tall grass causes the leading edge to roll under thereby ruining the lift. Put the kite directly downwind and pick up the straps and hold them no higher than knee height and walk backwards quickly. You will see the kite begin to get light and lift off of the ground. Generally if it gets to 2 or 3 feet you can stop and continue to fly it.

Only trouble with spars I have had are the lightweight spars for the Super 10. Allow you to fly when nothing else is, but if a gust comes along the kite assumes the shape of the top of an offset pyramid. (Spar will break, the grey colored one) I have decided to forgo trying to replace the spar,(they can be bought) and only fly my flexis when the wind is right.

Chris the Bigfoot

My method is to stake one line (at the handles) so the kite won't fly if it does take off. then walk the kite out so the lines are tight, inflate the kite most of the way then pull the side where the line is not staked back so the leading edge is at about a 45dgree angle to the wind direction. then walk back to the handles, pick up the staked handle first then pull the other handle so the leading edge is full into the wind. rapidly back up a few steps, yank the lines and she flies. this also works with my 2 flexis stacked. You do have to pull harder with 2 or more to get them all launched. On the beach, I will sometimes weigh the back edge down with a little sand if the wind is really blowing- or my water pitcher if I am not on a beach. the wind will sometimes roll the kite upside down before I can launch.

Never broken a spar yet - not for lack of crashing. I tape the the spar together at the joint. I didn't do that until one came apart while flying and put a hole through the spar pocket.

1) Set the flexi up so that is is upside down. 

2) Attach lines and walk back. 

3) Whilst holding handles, grab ONE of the lines about 1 - 2 Metre's from the handle. 

4) Yank hard on the line and let go. The flexi spins around on the ground. 

5) Gently tease it into the wind and away it goes.

Takes practice...

Launching in high wind isn't a problem, just set up and pull. To stop launching early, fold the kite over so the spar is on top of the kite and prevents inflation before you pull. I use a shepherd's crook shaped piece of metal about 3ft long that came with a lantern. If you balance the kite as you pull, only one is needed - same as the two sticks method.

Some one told me they put their lines over goal/rugby posts and pull to launch when they are flying on playing fields.

To be honest I don't fly them any more as they just don't do enough - start trick flying with a full sized sport kite, should keep you interested (and they are more easy to launch :-).

Alun J (UK)

Hi All,

i have flown Flexi's for a long time and have found the easiest way 2 self launch. i use 2 fiberglass rods 3ft.(1m ea.) stuck into the ground about 4-6 inches from each end of the kite. The angle between 45 & 60 degrees, depending on the conditions. 60d if short or no grass (sand), & 45d in taller grass. The rods don't have anything to snag the kite, so it glides up smoothly. Depending on the wind, you may have to shake the sail into shape on the way up the rods (only in extremely light winds). Just pull the kite up the rods slowly & it should inflate & take off. This works on stacks also, but the first kite is the only one that usually uses the rods. The others are lifted into the air & should inflate themselves if you have good wind. Good luck & good winds. - dano

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